Two Italian Moms Spill the Ultimate Lasagna Secret: A Béchamel Revolution
Our standout recipe of 2024 was none other than Kelli Foster’s classic lasagna. Kelli, known as The Kitchn’s official Dinner Therapist—and the creative force behind fan favorites like Tuscan Chicken and our Best-Ever French Toast—has redefined the way I view baked pasta. I used to shy away from lasagna, favoring the simplicity of baked ziti. But one recipe changed everything.
Before perfecting her lasagna, Kelli sought the wisdom of two true experts: a friend who grew up near Venice and an Italian American culinary producer. Both delivered the same golden advice: ditch the ricotta and use a creamy béchamel sauce instead.
Why This Lasagna Stands Out
I realized my longstanding dislike for traditional lasagna stemmed from the ricotta—it often turns dry and grainy when baked, undermining the dish’s overall appeal. What I really crave is an absurdly creamy filling, and béchamel delivers that perfectly without weighing the dish down. With this white sauce, there’s no need for mozzarella either. A dash of nutmeg even lends the lasagna a subtly refined flavor. When I served this version at Christmas dinner, all ten of our guests unanimously preferred it over any ricotta-based version.
Another brilliant twist is the lasagna noodle trick inspired by Ina: instead of boiling the noodles first, let them soak in hot water directly in the baking pan for about 30 minutes. Drain them, wipe the pan dry, and then layer your ingredients. With two homemade sauces to prepare, this method saves you from extra pots and pans, making the cleanup process a breeze.
The magic truly lies in the sauces. Kelli’s Bolognese sauce is a marvel—simmered for just 30 minutes after combining all the ingredients, it’s rich and satisfying. It starts by crisping up some pancetta, then uses the rendered fat to sauté a mirepoix of carrots, onions, and celery. This extra step adds a depth of flavor that olive oil simply can’t match. Plus, using both crushed tomatoes and a can of tomato sauce gives the Bolognese a hearty thickness and an intensified tomato flavor.
Pro Tips for a Stress-Free Lasagna
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Cook with a Buddy: Whether it’s a friend, partner, or even a family member, cooking together makes the process fun and efficient. My mom once helped me out while my husband was away, and it turned an intense cooking session into a joyful family affair.
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Plan Ahead: This isn’t a quick-fix recipe. There’s a good amount of shopping, prep, cooking, and cleaning involved. Read through the recipe a few times to create a clear strategy and timeline.
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Make the Sauces in Advance: Prepare both sauces a day—or even two—ahead of time. Store them in separate containers, and for the béchamel, place a sheet of plastic wrap directly on its surface to prevent a skin from forming. Gently reheat each sauce before assembling the lasagna, while the noodles soak.
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Let It Rest: Allow your lasagna to cool for at least 15 minutes after baking. It’s tempting to dig in right away, but letting it rest ensures the layers set beautifully.
This lasagna is truly a labor of love. Whether you’re a longtime lasagna aficionado or new to the dish, its perfectly balanced, creamy flavors are sure to win you over. Enjoy the process and savor every bite of your culinary masterpiece!